Stop Ends for Apron Flashings

Building Industry Experience Shows

	Plumbers don’t install them.
	Roofers don’t install them.
	Plasterers don’t install them.
	Builders don’t install them.
	Without them the roof leaks.
	Even the flashing suppliers don’t install them

It is the flashing suppliers responsibility so they MUST install them.

	How will he know to install them?
	The builder is to tell the Flasher that 50mm (or more) thick plaster is to be applied so the flashing needs extending to cater for this i.e. 80mm past gutter line.  Plasterer can cut off any excess.

What should happen is the roofer installing the roof flashing leaves it 80mm longer than the roof tiles and snips up the angle and bends the upright face forward and the bottom one up, then seal the internal edge.  This will direct the water that the flashing is designed to shed out into the gutter when it hits the upstand created.  Hence a built up stop end.

Lead flashings are easiest to use as the lead is malleable.

If the stop end hasn’t been formed in the roof flashing itself a separate metal stop end must be made.  See drawing Hitex specification sheet.  These fit both left hand and right hand situations.  They are installed under the flashing and beat at the appropriate angle to the roof and then sealed.

SEALANT BY ITSELF IS NOT SATISFACTORY

Gutters should be terminated short of the plaster line.  Leave them 55mm short for 50mm thick Hitex (65mm where 60mm Hitex is supplied).  The stop end will direct water into the gutter.  The Hitex sheet goes in under the gutter termination so it won’t leak.

Stop Ends for Decks

	The butynol fixer isn’t told that butynol needs to be extended at the edges (stop ends) to turn the water past the face of the plaster – not just stop at the wall.
	If the butynol fixer hasn’t created the stop ends the plasterer cannot be expected to mock something up to turn water out.
	The problem is often not noticed for several years.

In the past the butynol fixer fixes the butynol over the deck and up the wall correctly but fails to leave a weathering flap big enough to be turned outwards to go right to the outside of the 50mm thick plaster line.

The butynol must be carried back out from the wall to the front of the plaster at the deck edges so water is turned away and directed out over and around the face of the plaster.  Failure to attend to this detail will allow water to soak in between the plaster and butynol directly to the studs causing significant damage.

SEALANT BY ITSELF IS NOT SATISFACTORY

Early notification to the Butynol Fixer is all that is needed.  When they are advised of what is required they can sort it out at installation.

Page last updated Tuesday, 08 March 2005